You could have the newest $4,000 camera, but if your lighting is bad, your video will look like it was shot on a webcam. Conversely, you can shoot on a 7-year-old camera (like I did for some of the videos with my Sony A7III) and make it look like a Netflix documentary — if you know how to shape light.
In my latest video guide, I break down the exact universal lighting setup I use for both my vlogs and high-end client interviews.
Here are the three biggest mistakes beginners make when building a home studio, and how to fix them.
1. Ignoring the CRI Number
Most beginners grab the cheapest LED panels they can find on Amazon. The problem? They often have a low CRI (Color Rendering Index). If this number is below 90, your skin tones will look green or magenta, and no amount of color grading will fix it.
The Fix: Always look for lights with a CRI of 90+.
In the video above, I show why I use the Amaran series to get natural, consistent skin tones every time. A high-CRI light makes your camera and your color grading life much easier, because you're starting from a clean, neutral base instead of fighting strange color casts.
2. Using Small Light Sources
Hard, unflattering shadows are the hallmark of amateur video. This happens when your light source is too small relative to your face. A bare bulb or a small LED panel creates harsh lines that emphasize skin texture and blemishes.
The Fix: You need a softbox.
The rule of physics is simple: the bigger the light source, the softer the shadows. I break down specifically why I use an 85 cm softbox and why a 60 W light might not be powerful enough to fill it—especially if you want to keep your ISO low and your aperture stopped down for sharper images.
In the handbook, I compare different softbox sizes, show real examples on my face, and explain how distance to the subject changes the softness of light just as much as the size of the modifier.
3. The "Auto Mode" Trap
This is the #1 reason people return their new lights. They set up a beautiful scene, turn on the lights, and... the video looks grainy and dark. Why? Because the camera is on Auto. The camera sees the bright light and compensates by lowering the exposure, ruining the look.
The Fix: You must switch to Manual Mode.
In the video, I walk you through the exact settings (ISO, Shutter, Aperture) you need to lock in to get that cinematic look. Once exposure is locked, your lights become the main creative tool: you control contrast, mood, and depth, instead of the camera fighting you on every change.
Pro tip: this lighting setup works whether you're shooting on a Sony A7III, a modern full-frame camera, or even an APS-C body. The principles of CRI, light size, and manual exposure don't change.
Watch the Full Handbook
I've put together a complete, step-by-step handbook on building this setup—including the specific stands, modifiers, and the classic 3-Point Lighting diagram I use.
- Key light position and height for flattering skin
- How to add a subtle fill without flattening the image
- When and how to use a backlight for separation
- How to control spill so your background doesn't look messy
You can find the full gear list and budget alternatives on my Ultimate Lighting Setup gear page. I list exactly which lights, softboxes, stands, and small accessories I use in my own home studio.